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  • Anthony Triola

    Member
    December 18, 2024 at 7:02 pm
    780
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    About a year ago I caught probably the biggest wave I’ve ever had. I wouldn’t call myself a charger by any means but I think it was at least a couple feet overhead. Was screaming down the line on it in this awesome trim for probably about 15 seconds or so thinking like “holy hell I’m about to ride this monster all the way in!” because it seemed like it was really holding up well. Figured I had enough speed to make the next section but the white wash ate me up. Rinse cycle, several seconds hold down, I resurface probably a little more panicked than I should have been. Another one right behind it that I make the incorrect judgment the safest course of action would be to just get on it prone with no one riding it (in retrospect I should’ve just tried to turtle and hold on for dear life), rinse cycles me rather severely as well as it was much too steep to prone ride. This second wave takes both of my contact lenses out of my eyes, and I’m quite blind. It was the last of the set thankfully but it was still quite scary having to feel my way over to the channel while asking others where I was at. Shook me up for a while and am still quite selective about what conditions I surf in since then.