-
4
Okay, I have experimented with body positioning on the board today. Now half of the waves I nosedive, another half pass under me. My previous wavecount was 3 waves in 2 hours, today I caught 4 waves, but in worse conditions – 18s period “fat” waves. I guess body position makes difference, but it’s not a silver bullet.
I have also watched closely everyone in the line-up, and everyone, everyone struggled to catch waves. The only people who caught them were the ones sitting closer in. So I conclude that positioning relative to the wave is the most important factor, and I was right to sit closer in.
Another observation – I do several look-backs, but I struggle to see which way the wave will be peeling. It just looks like a giant wall of water. Baby steps, baby steps.