-
2675
1,537
Hey Al great question! And really good break down by Brian I 100% agree.
Key things we’re thinking about comparing speed is yes board position, typically (give or take depending on wide point of board) the middle is where we will generate most speed. Then you’re also correct in identifying that you’re using the bottom 3rd of the wave more so. Board positioning in the middle and wave positioning being in the middle to top 3rd of the wave are the two major levers to pull in order to generate more speed.
The other really important consideration however is angle across the wave. When the nose of the board is pointed even slightly more towards the beach the board will push significantly more water – and we will also being angled towards the slowest part of the wave. So having a board angle pointing right across the wave is really important as well.
Then we also need to take into account what to do when we’re going off towards the shoulder and we need to lose speed or cutback. For this, the better our transition into and out of turns are (beginning turn quickly and generating speed/power in turn without creating too much drag) the more speed we will carry between our trimming.
I think check out the ‘wave theory series’ which starts the intermediate level of Longboard Continuum which discusses some of this nicely!
https://longboardsessions.com/wave-theory-series/
