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Fixing my stance…
Finally had some photos taken of me surfing for the first time. No videos yet, but interesting to see my stance. Very curious to see what feedback you guys have for me! A few things I notice immediately:
-not relaxed at all (although my excuse is the wave is quite choppy/pitchy where I am surfing in Hawaii, and it’s hard to get onto that wave)
-hands on same side of the rail
-my hip is closed to one side of the rail, should be more open to the front?
-on the backside, my right arm needs to go across my body
-I seem to be bent over too much
anything else?
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Also one more point: Maybe I need to popup closer to the tail section of the board to do a quick baby bottom turn, rather than landing on the middle of the board and getting my rail bogged it seems at the bottom.
I’m more used to surfing on mid-lengths so popping up closer to tail is a new change for me and feels a bit odd to be trying to slow down the board to turn rather than accelerating down the wave for a large bottom turn…
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Hey!!! This is epic – great to get some photos of yourself and get an understanding of how things look vs feel. There’s definitely a lot going right! You’re popping up at the top of the wave, seem to maintain some nice balance and your stance width is looking awesome – adopting a wider stance in the steeper/trickier conditions- but there’s definitely some stuff to work on, and I like some of what you’ve mentioned already.
1. We can see in one of those earlier shots that you’re quite far up the board as you’re approaching the bottom, and this can be an explanation for bogging a rail on those bottom turns. I know it can seem a bit funny popping up closer to the tail, but it is required to engage the tail and rail effectively in this instance. What you want to be careful of is using the tail pop in the instance of need to turn either straight after the pop-up (baby bottom turn) or like you mentioned when doing a deep bottom turn (driving through the bottom curve of the wave to complete the bottom turn). Where we want to be careful, is not using the tail pop when the section is too fat and where we will lose too much speed, in this instance we can definitely still complete the straight pop.
2. You’ve nailed it in what you said! Arms need to be one over each rail, and adopting a soft knee bend is great as well.
For yourself, I would take notes on positioning of the body and feet – as well as just understanding the concepts behind these videos/series – and then of course we’re suuuppeerrr happy to keep answering questions and working with you after that too:
– Intermediate longboard stance series (if you haven’t already, this is a game changer!)
– tail pop series
– straight pop series
Can’t wait to see some footage, more photos and work through this with you more, yewww!!! 🔥🔥👏
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